July 16, 2010 - July 30, 2010
Volume XXXII, Issue 12
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Travel

Biking the Ho Chi Minh Trail

Biking the Ho Chi Minh Trail
The Santa Cruz Mountains Challenge is unquestionably a pretty tough ride, but mountain bikers are always seeking something more exotic and challenging. One of the odder places they've discovered is the Ho Chi Minh Trail in Vietnam.

This legendary supply trail during the Vietnam War stretched hundreds of miles along the border between Vietnam and Laos and saw a steady stream of soldiers, ammunition, weapons and other supplies carried under a constant bombardment from American aircraft.

Nowadays there are numerous guided tours along the network of trails and highways, many of which remain unpaved. While riders report that the locals are now very friendly, the ride can be challenging in unexpected ways. One rider reported that traffic mostly stays to the right, "but they are not fanatical about it," instead coming at you from all directions.

There are still relics of tanks and trucks along the way, things too large to have been scavenged for scrap metal, and it pays to be watchful for unexploded ordnance. But one of the biggest dangers is dogs, which are everywhere. When one gets hit, an argument frequently ensues about who gets it, the vehicle that hit it or the owner.

Another sight likely to stir memories in Americans of a certain age is the occasional bicycle riders carrying AK-47 rifles. However, nowadays these are apparently used only for hunting. Machetes also remain a frequent accessory, as some trails are so thick with bamboo this is the only way to pass.

The once-secretive trail now offers plentiful hotels and shops along the way, and the guided tours emphasize the beauty and the cycling challenge rather than old animosities. Though you will undoubtedly be enchanted by the old world charm, the junks sailing in emerald waters, and the lush undulating terrain, it's best not to assume that all ghosts of the past have vanished entirely.

As one tour organizer says, "We reserve the right to deviate from this itinerary for any reasons… which may influence client safety."


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